Sporting over 80 restaurants that specialize in the Tokyo delicacy of monjayaki, Tsukishima Monja Street is the perfect spot to reignite a regional rivalry. While Kansai offers the more well-known okonomiyaki, Kanto’s take on this griddle-fired, savory pancake dish more than stakes its claim. Both dishes use a griddle batter as a base for constructing a multi-topping pancake, though monjayaki is thinner in consistency, and thus results in a more porridge-like consistency. The history of Tsukishima Monja Street and monjayaki can be traced back to the Edo period, where monjayaki was a popular street food. Created by dissolving flour and sugar in water and cooking it on an iron griddle, this economic alternative was a sweet snack, loved by children.
The modern-day monjayaki is said to have been an evolution of this traditional food. So, before heading to Kansai and chomping down on the ever-present okonomiyaki, be sure to first savor the flavors and history of Tokyo’s own take on this griddled phenomenon. When you order monjayaki today, your chosen ingredients are mixed directly into the bowl of flour-based liquid batter. At the table, you cook the mixture on the iron griddle yourself, often using two spatulas to chop and stir the ingredients. Once the ingredients are cooked, you pour the remaining liquid batter over them and mix, finishing the dish. Part of the fun is eating directly from the griddle with the small spatula, which makes the experience both interactive and entertaining.
Tsukishima Monja Street is conveniently located close to Tokyo Station. From the latter, jump on the Tokaido Shinkansen for Shiga to begin your Kansai culinary quest!

"Making traditional culture live beautifully in modern life" is the mantra of Kurokabe Square, located in Nagahama, Shiga Prefecture. Originally a thriving castle town governed by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the area was since developed as a commercial district. Then, with the rise of suburbanization in the 1970s, the old Dai Hyaku-Sanju National Bank (known as Kurokabe Bank) in the old town was renovated into a shop specializing in glass crafts. The name Kurokabe literally translates to Black Wall, evoking images of both strength and mystery. This all-black once-bank was originally constructed during the Meiji period. It still retains this historic charm, albeit serving a different purpose; acting as the vessel for one of the largest glass art exhibition venues in western Japan. The buildings that surround Kurokabe have followed a similar trajectory, retaining their exterior charms while being repurposed as cafés and ateliers. Even the streets themselves are a testament to artistic tradition, with a litany of colorful and creative manholes adorning the Square’s narrow pathways. In reference to the local delicacies that are on offer, the culinary gem of Kurokabe Square is undoubtedly gourmet Omi beef. A delicacy that can be savored within several of these Meiji-era establishments. For example, 96 Cafe, located at the entrance of Kurokabe, offers both pancakes topped with Omi beef roast, and chocolate-flavored soft serve inspired by the Black Wall.
From Nagahama Station, head to Kyoto Station and transfer to the Miyakoji Rapid train, which will whisk you off to our next destination — the deer-populated paradise of Nara.