The Sound of Tomorrow
Hokkaido, Japan
The Beginning of the Journey
In Hokkaido, the land stands apart, cold and enduring. Mossy trees stand mute, having watched the turning of all seasons—witnesses to time itself.
Long before me, humans crossed this earth and made their home here. Beneath the sky and through the forests, the Ainu named this land Mosir. These woods still remember their legends.
The Ainu language has always been passed down by word of mouth, as epics called Yukar or as oral histories from elder to child. Tales of the past. Who the Ainu were and are is not mine to claim; I can only listen.
Tour with Kengo Takiguchi
All things in nature are sacred, and the balance between humans and the heavenly realm must be preserved. It's easy to understand this ethos as I walk through the primeval forests, known as the Forest of Light, just north of the shores of Lake Akan. My guide, Kengo Takiguchi, points to a large katsura tree that rises before us.
He says, “This tree is most likely 800 years old. When the central trunk dies, the surrounding limbs grow to take its place and support the tree. The base is incredibly dense and difficult to cut.” Kengo, the son of Masamitsu Takiguchi, afamous woodcarver, explains that his father loved to use this dense wood to carve large statues, which can be found across Lake Akan.
The Lake Akan Ainu Kotan
After my walk through the forest I decide to try to find a place to get lunch.The Lake Akan Ainu Kotan is the largest bastion of Ainu heritage in East Hokkaido. A short but dense shopping street with vendors and restaurants on either side, the sound of mukkuri, a small mouth harp, echoes over the speakers. Above the buildings, statues of a Blakiston’s Fish Owl kamuy stand silent, watching over the village. I take refuge from the cold autumn wind in Ainu Food Cafe Poronno, run by Yoshifuru and Fukiko Goukon. I enjoy a nice warm meal ofsoup and vegetables based on the traditional ingredients available to the Ainu people in this region.
Lake Akan Cruise
Cold winds blow across the lake as the sun dips behind the autumn colored hills. A white ferry undulates on evening waves towards the crowded dock. For the next hour, I’ll journey across the lake and its landscapes, between forests set atop cliffs made from ancient eruptions. We make a brief stop at Churui Island, with its own observation deck and marimo exhibit, and I learn more about the unique nature that creates the lake's charming mascot.
Pete Toshihiro
- Tonkori Expirience
My interest in the Ainu culture led me to discover the mystical sound of the tonkori, a wooden guitar-like instrument. A local musician and artisan named Pete Toshihiro agreed to instruct me on the intricacies of how these instruments are used to play Ainu music.
Strings that were once made from sinew are now fashioned from plastic wire. Each time they are plucked, a soft, mysterious sound carries across the room. As each string is masterfully tuned and lacking frets, there is no wrong way to play this instrument.
Lost Kamuy
Not far from Onne Cise, where I listened to Pete’s tonkori, is Akanko Ainu Theater Ikor, a professional theater where daily performances of traditional Ainu dances and modern interpretations are held.The performance of "Lost Kamuy", the gods of the Ainu, a visually stunning depiction of the tragedy of wolves being hunted to extinction in Hokkaido, piqued my interest to see how traditional Ainu dance blends with a modern flair. which centers on the story of wolves in Hokkaido being hunted to extinction. Through a dazzling display of lights and energy, dancers circle a central hearth, singing and shouting. Following the performance, I, along with the rest of the audience, am invited to dance along in the center of the hall. I did my best.
Upopoy National Ainu Museum and Park
In the shadow of Mt. Tarumae, Upopoy National Ainu Museum and Park sits between Lake Poroto and the Pacific.
With museums and recreated homes, it offers a full experience of Ainu culture.
As I enter through the concrete corridor to the plaza, the walls are decorated with shapes of the forest and silhouettes of animals, gods of nature beckoning me.
National Ainu Museum
On the second floor of the large complex at the heart of Upopoy is the National Ainu Museum. As I walk through the main entrance, a wide open space greets me. Each exhibit is organized based on six pillars that define the Ainu in their words: language, universe, lives, work, history, and exchange.
Understanding the religious and social beliefs of the Ainu is easily accomplished within the National Ainu Museum. Prayer sticks, known as inau, depend on which kamuy is being called upon. Placed across the village, within nature, and inside homes, the inau were revered. Within the cise, these were complemented by open windows through which the kamuy would enter the home. With a plethora of examples, the nuances are explained artfully, bringing light to the esoteric belief system of the Ainu.
The history of the Ainu fascinates me; the diaries of Chiri Yukie, a young author born in neighboring Noboribetsu, catch my eye. Just over a hundred years ago, she passed away at the young age of 19, as one of the earliest and most complete attempts to transcribe the oral legends of the Ainu into Japanese, her legacy has had a profound impact on preserving Ainu heritage today.
Later, I am reminded of Pete’s tonkori performance by an exhibit on Oki Kano, another musician specializing in playing the tonkori. Further that in the hands of these stewards, the resurgence of Ainu culture and music is ongoing.
National Ainu Museum Shop
Upon leaving the exhibit, I descend the escalator to the gift shop. A variety of goods are available for me to purchase to include Ainu clothing made in collaboration with local artisans. Woodcarvings that feature the unique patterns of Ainu culture are also available.A small café and sitting area are available, and I sit to reflect on what I've seen.
Ainu Singing (upopo akiro)
Returning to the cise I gather near the central hearth alongside a group of travelers. Today, we will learn a simple Ainu song and practice singing it together.
hekuri sarana ha ha ho ha hou
Meaning The gods have appeared before us At first our group is hesitant to follow the unfamiliar sounds, but with the help of our guide we quickly discover the rhythm and pleasing harmonies.
Lake Poroto Ainu cip (upaskuma)
On the shores of Lake Poroto, a small crowd gathers to watch the sunset behind the hills above l Upopoy. The light bounces off the still surface of the lake. The autumn wind has ceased, and the temperature drops; winter is soon to arrive. The final demonstration showcases Ainu cip, or dugout canoes, the guide departs out into the water, the only sound is that of the hardwood breaking the water. These boats once represented a means for the Ainu to explore and carry their valuable goods. From the forests of Akan to the shores of Lake Poroto, the Ainu spirit endures in every note, every carving, and every dance. Ainu culture, once at risk to disappear like the wolves depicted in the Lost Kamuy performance at Akan, is experiencing a new resurgence as a unique and vibrant culture of the Japanese Archipelago. The museums and performances at Upopoy and Akan, as well as artisans like Pete and Kengo, are not just echoes of the past, they are resounding promises for the future of new generations to come.
Discover Upopoy
Go to
Summer Upopoy
Discover more
